Charles and Stuart Smith do something unusual with their Smith-Madrone
cabernet sauvignon. They hold it for several years before release, effectively
pre-aging the wines. While most Napa and other California wineries are now releasing
2010 and even 2011 cabs, Smith-Madrone is still selling its 2006, which can be
held for many more years but is drinking nicely right now.
This is a sophisticated and elegant cab grown in volcanic
soils on the steep slopes of Spring Mountain at an elevation of almost 2,000
feet. The vineyard is dry farmed, meaning that it’s not irrigated. All of this
is a recipe for complexity, which Smith-Madrone’s 2006 Cabernet is loaded with.
One is struck first by its earthiness, and minerality, which
punctuate the dark fruit tastes, especially black currant and black cherry. The fruit is accented by fennel seed, unsweetened chocolate and leather notes and is supported by a good
deal of acidity. The $40 wine was aged for 22 months in new American oak
barrels. The blend is 85 percent cabernet sauvignon, nine percent cabernet franc and six percent merlot. Alcohol is 14.1 percent. Smith-Madrone also makes two white wines, a chardonnay
and a superb riesling, which are also worth seeking out. Wine received as a press sample.
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